Skip to main content

Cheap LED brake/Turn signals



I picked up that ubiquitous center brake/turn signal from one of the online resellers for less than $10 several years ago. It has worked flawlessly despite having super thin delicate wires. No stray flashing and does everything it's designed to do. 

For most cafe/brat builds that's pretty much all that is needed with an eye towards simplicity and minimalist design. I've always preferred a little extra visibility when I'm out because I don't want to get killed if I can do something to avoid it.  So when I saw those turn signal stalks that have "flowing" amber turn signals as well as flashing brake lights I thought it would be a great addition especially since they came as 4 lights. 2 for the front with day time driving lights (white) and 2 for the rear with flashing brakes for less than $15 if I remember correctly.

Unfortunately, I discovered that they were really sensitive to stray voltage and either the brake or the turn signal would randomly flash depending on where the stray voltage was detected.  I tried swapping the lights for a different set and swapping grounds but nothing seemed to help.  Over the winter, I eventually realized that I probably needed a diode to prevent the stray voltage from activating my LEDs in the rear section so I found my stash of diodes from eBay (1N5402 200V 3A), soldered a couple of connectors to it and spliced it upstream of the ground where all the splices were tapped to feed the 2 stalks, the plate light and the center brake.

Attaching the connectors directly to the diode made for a very neat connection compared to the jumble of wires for the rear LEDs. I probably need to shorten the wires to make things nice and clean but I guess it will be a project for another day.





 Now, there's no more stray flashing in the rear.

I'm close to finishing just about everything there is to do on this bike. Yes I still have a rearset I would like to install eventually and maybe a small wind screen. It runs great after coming out of hibernation.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

how to open your door when neither handle works

My recently acquired 2003 Honda Accord EX 4 cyl had a faulty door lock actuator in the front passenger side door.  Here is a run down of what I did wrong in case you find yourself in a similiar situation. Shopping for door lock actuators - Prices go from around $10 to over $40. I mistakenly ordered a pair of door lock actuators ($20 for left and right) for a coupe and received 2 black actuators that were not sized correctly for my 4 door sedan which has smaller white actuators. I did not discover the problem until after I had the door panel off and the actuator removed from the door latch assembly. It was hot, the flies were landing on me and drinking my sweat and I just wanted to button the door back up and stay cool inside so I searched for the closest parts store that had the part in stock and went there to buy it for $45. (I did return the 2 wrong parts but did not get a full refund, but I'm ok with that...$16 back in my pocket is better than $0) Reassembling the door l

Universal Speedometer/Tachometer install

I wanted to replace my original speedometer and tachometer for something more compact. I'm not sure why, but the original 85mph speedometer always bothered me. I guess I felt like the bike deserved better even though I've only pinned it once in 10 years of riding.   After casually looking around and almost pulling the trigger on a cheaper universal speedo with an analog sweep needle for the tach, I stumbled across this product. It can be found in all the usual places such as Amazon and eBay but it's usually buried behind 2 or 3 pages of search results with vastly different prices ranging from mid 40s to mid 80s (US$). The description typically includes a listing of what each wire is intended to be connected to, but in typical fashion for these kinds of imported products the English translation leaves a lot to be desired. For example: the product detail notes: "Oil Quantity Indicator" as one of the display areas, but they really mean fuel level (my bike doesn't

GSX-R750 Caruretor swap for the CB750c Part1

As an owner of an early 80s cb750, it quickly becomes obvious that the CV carburetors on these old motorcycles require the original airbox to run properly. It would seem like a minor price to pay for the reliability and dependability that we get with the design since no jetting changes are needed as we change altititude or swap exhausts. The constant vacuum (CV) design automatically compensates for the difference and keeps the bike running happily. Just don't change the airbox or use anything other than the original style airfilter. I got my bike running perfectly so I'm either a glutton for punishment or just a dumb geek who can't leave stuff alone. "If it aint broke, fix it until it is" might be my motto. People tell me I wouldn't be happy with a new bike because there would be nothing to fix. Maybe it's just a way for me to keep my mind busy so I don't have to think how much I hate my job. I started noticing some posts from people on cb1100f