Old Car and Bike rambling

I removed ~2.38mm from either side of the swing arm pivot area and also 2.38mm from the pivot/collars but after the bearings were fitted and the dust seals installed, it still needs just a little more clearance to fit inside the frame.  I removed as much as I could from the left side where the roller bearings live and still have enough depth to allow the dust seal to go on and sit fairly flush. Not sure what I'm doing wrong but I ruined 2 dust seals trying to install them without mangling them even after greasing the seals prior to installation.  The right side has a little more wiggle room for trimming and it looks like I will need to remove just a tiny bit more on the right side of the pivot for everything to slide into place. I found that, due to the close tolerance, the swing arm needs to be coaxed into place by inserting the nighthawk pivot bolt into the swing arm bolt hole in the frame in order to align the collars the final few mm to line up the collar with the hole...

After 10+ years of ownership and reading many posts warning about staying with the original airbox, I've reached a point where the bike has never run better so why not give pods a try and see for myself. I found a few posts where a few people were experiencing success with their pod installations and it seemed like the jetting combination that everyone was using is: slow jet: 38 primary: 80 secondary: 120 tips for adjusting/compensating the base jetting:  decrease main jet area by 2.8% for every 1000 feet above sea level 1/2 turn on the fuel mixture per jet size 3 or more turns on the fuel mixture screw go 1 size bigger pilot 2 turns or less on the fuel mixture go 1 size smaller pilot There's even a few YouTube videos of guys running with pods on CV carbs.  From my research, it seems like you'll need a well running bike with reasonably good/consistent compression across the cylinders to even attempt to run pods. Over the years, I've come across a number of old...