Skip to main content

Cheap performance upgrade for a 50cc Chinese Scooter

While we were living in limbo over the summer, I bought a used scooter for my daughter to get herself to work.  The 2008 Roketa MC-17-50(SICILY-50) was slow. Dangerously slow. Going down a level road on full throttle, the speed topped out at 30mph unless I was going uphill (20mph) or downhill (40mph). At 2.9hp I wasn't sure if I was maximizing the performance.

I made a mental note to do something about the performance when I had a place to work on my stuff. 

Scooter internals were foreign to me.  They have a CVT transmission which I knew nothing about, however I quickly learned that the "Variator" is a neat little device driven by centrifugal force which works in conjunction with the centrifugal clutch to vary the gearing automatically as the rider goes down the road.

Like having someone change gears on my bicycle for me, the variator changes the front gears and the clutch changes the rear gears.

Online research pointed to several easy upgrades such as:
  1. removing the variator washer
  2. removing the exhaust restriction
  3. changing the jetting on the carb
When I began poking around, I discovered these performance restrictions did not apply to my daughter's scooter.

A little more poking and more google-fu and I discovered that I could change the gear shifting behavior by altering the centrifugal forces in the variator by changing the roller weights inside. 

These scooters come stock with 8.5g rollers which causes the scooter to upshift too soon and ensures the scooter never hits the meat of it's power band. I removed 3 of the 6 weights (making sure not to upset the balance) and took it for a spin to see if there was any difference from the seat of the pants and was pleased to find that the engine revs much higher now and I was able to hit 35mph on a gradual incline going up the street in front of our house.  Success!

On order are a set of 6g rollers. I decided to buy a new set of rollers instead of leaving them out in case the rollers need to apply some pressure as they do their business inside the variator and I figured 6 is better than 3 for balance, centrifugal force and potentially wear on the rollers.

I think I almost doubled my useable power for about $20.

Maintenance performed during the roller weight replacement:
-starter clutch replacement (the old one was getting a little slow in engaging, might be worthwhile spraying some lubricant in it)
-clean belt facing variator surfaces with brake clean and scotch bright
-lubricate drive shaft sleeve
-wax the variator roller surfaces (using spray furniture polish because I ran out of silicone spray)

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

how to open your door when neither handle works

My recently acquired 2003 Honda Accord EX 4 cyl had a faulty door lock actuator in the front passenger side door.  Here is a run down of what I did wrong in case you find yourself in a similiar situation. Shopping for door lock actuators - Prices go from around $10 to over $40. I mistakenly ordered a pair of door lock actuators ($20 for left and right) for a coupe and received 2 black actuators that were not sized correctly for my 4 door sedan which has smaller white actuators. I did not discover the problem until after I had the door panel off and the actuator removed from the door latch assembly. It was hot, the flies were landing on me and drinking my sweat and I just wanted to button the door back up and stay cool inside so I searched for the closest parts store that had the part in stock and went there to buy it for $45. (I did return the 2 wrong parts but did not get a full refund, but I'm ok with that...$16 back in my pocket is better than $0) Reassembling the door l

Universal Speedometer/Tachometer install

I wanted to replace my original speedometer and tachometer for something more compact. I'm not sure why, but the original 85mph speedometer always bothered me. I guess I felt like the bike deserved better even though I've only pinned it once in 10 years of riding.   After casually looking around and almost pulling the trigger on a cheaper universal speedo with an analog sweep needle for the tach, I stumbled across this product. It can be found in all the usual places such as Amazon and eBay but it's usually buried behind 2 or 3 pages of search results with vastly different prices ranging from mid 40s to mid 80s (US$). The description typically includes a listing of what each wire is intended to be connected to, but in typical fashion for these kinds of imported products the English translation leaves a lot to be desired. For example: the product detail notes: "Oil Quantity Indicator" as one of the display areas, but they really mean fuel level (my bike doesn't

GSX-R750 Caruretor swap for the CB750c Part1

As an owner of an early 80s cb750, it quickly becomes obvious that the CV carburetors on these old motorcycles require the original airbox to run properly. It would seem like a minor price to pay for the reliability and dependability that we get with the design since no jetting changes are needed as we change altititude or swap exhausts. The constant vacuum (CV) design automatically compensates for the difference and keeps the bike running happily. Just don't change the airbox or use anything other than the original style airfilter. I got my bike running perfectly so I'm either a glutton for punishment or just a dumb geek who can't leave stuff alone. "If it aint broke, fix it until it is" might be my motto. People tell me I wouldn't be happy with a new bike because there would be nothing to fix. Maybe it's just a way for me to keep my mind busy so I don't have to think how much I hate my job. I started noticing some posts from people on cb1100f