Skip to main content

LED Low beams for 2003 Honda Accord

My $500 Honda Accord has always been plagued with a strange voltage problem and I'm bothered by the headlights randomly flickering from normal to dim and back again when I drive at night. I've been wanting to switch to LED bulbs for a few years because the prospect of not needing to change the bulbs is quite attractive to me.

I'm hoping these LED replacement bulbs will be less sensitive to the anomalous voltage fluctuations as well as being brighter for better night time visibility.

I had a great experience with a set of fog light bulbs for my Miata made by WOXMA, but found these at a great deal from walmart.com so I decided to give them a try.

Lasfit is actually one of the more popular LED brands on the Internet at the moment.  While they are not one of the higher end products out there, the technology appears to use "Flip chips" which are supposed to be the latest and greatest. I hope to use these until a newer technology promises a better, brighter beam.

These bulbs are not DOT approved and if I lived in a state where they do annual safety inspections, these would probably fail the inspection with certain astute techs.

I've never changed the bulbs in this car so I struggled for a few hours to figure out a way of ensuring that the bulbs fit securely and that the plugs were oriented with the right polarity before I tightened everything down. The accord uses 3 screws to hold the bulb in place but since the LED bulbs have a slightly different fit, I added washers ensure that they don't pop off on a bumpy road on 2 of the 3 screws.

On paper, these bulbs are supposed to be nearly 4 times brighter than the 55w halogens they replaced (not sure if lumens can be measured this way, but 1000 lumens vs 3800 lumens is 3.8x brighter).

Taking some evening shots to get an idea of distance and cutoff, I feel like these are a big improvement that highlights the need for me to clean up the headlight lenses so they don't obstruct the beam of light.

Halogen low beam

LED low beam

There is more scattered light with the brighter LEDs, but the hot spot is still at approximately the same position. The scattered light throws up fairly high and I have a concern that they may seem like high beams to oncoming drivers. 




After more than a week of driving I haven't been flashed once and the weird flicker is gone. These lights are a keeper

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

how to open your door when neither handle works

My recently acquired 2003 Honda Accord EX 4 cyl had a faulty door lock actuator in the front passenger side door.  Here is a run down of what I did wrong in case you find yourself in a similiar situation. Shopping for door lock actuators - Prices go from around $10 to over $40. I mistakenly ordered a pair of door lock actuators ($20 for left and right) for a coupe and received 2 black actuators that were not sized correctly for my 4 door sedan which has smaller white actuators. I did not discover the problem until after I had the door panel off and the actuator removed from the door latch assembly. It was hot, the flies were landing on me and drinking my sweat and I just wanted to button the door back up and stay cool inside so I searched for the closest parts store that had the part in stock and went there to buy it for $45. (I did return the 2 wrong parts but did not get a full refund, but I'm ok with that...$16 back in my pocket is better than $0) Reassembling the door l

Universal Speedometer/Tachometer install

I wanted to replace my original speedometer and tachometer for something more compact. I'm not sure why, but the original 85mph speedometer always bothered me. I guess I felt like the bike deserved better even though I've only pinned it once in 10 years of riding.   After casually looking around and almost pulling the trigger on a cheaper universal speedo with an analog sweep needle for the tach, I stumbled across this product. It can be found in all the usual places such as Amazon and eBay but it's usually buried behind 2 or 3 pages of search results with vastly different prices ranging from mid 40s to mid 80s (US$). The description typically includes a listing of what each wire is intended to be connected to, but in typical fashion for these kinds of imported products the English translation leaves a lot to be desired. For example: the product detail notes: "Oil Quantity Indicator" as one of the display areas, but they really mean fuel level (my bike doesn't

GSX-R750 Caruretor swap for the CB750c Part1

As an owner of an early 80s cb750, it quickly becomes obvious that the CV carburetors on these old motorcycles require the original airbox to run properly. It would seem like a minor price to pay for the reliability and dependability that we get with the design since no jetting changes are needed as we change altititude or swap exhausts. The constant vacuum (CV) design automatically compensates for the difference and keeps the bike running happily. Just don't change the airbox or use anything other than the original style airfilter. I got my bike running perfectly so I'm either a glutton for punishment or just a dumb geek who can't leave stuff alone. "If it aint broke, fix it until it is" might be my motto. People tell me I wouldn't be happy with a new bike because there would be nothing to fix. Maybe it's just a way for me to keep my mind busy so I don't have to think how much I hate my job. I started noticing some posts from people on cb1100f