Skip to main content

Easy come, easy go?

My $500 Honda Accord has been a great car and we drove it all over the country in the first few years.  With the loss of our Kia Sportage we started to rely on it much more for daily duty until my wife got into an accident which is essentially a mirror of the damage it received when my brother in law owned the car.

The repair estimate for what looked like moderate damage was $5400.  I understand with the previous accident history, there's little point in paying this kind of money to repair it, but I know there's still lots of life left in it as an around town car or to let my daughter use it as a junker.

I'm having the car towed back from the collision place and hope to replace a few suspension components and have a mostly working car even if it's not visually perfect.

Easy come, easy go? Maybe not. I don't want to junk another car if I can help it.


I should have the Honda back on the road with the new rear control arm and we should be able to drive it to get some repair estimates on kinda fixing some of the body damage.  I think there's a problem with the fuel sender since the gas gauge doesn't move from the resting position.

I was having some trouble ordering the correct bolt for the control arm, I needed the adjustable toe bolt and ordered the wrong part resulting in another week delay before she's driveable.



This is the only damaged part that I could find under the car
After fixing the bent control arm, I removed the fuel pump to find a full tank and discovered a small part that is designed to hold the float in place broke off from the force of the accident.  The float was just flopping around when I pulled the pump assembly out. After examining the thing for a few minutes, I found a way of securing a zip tie to act as the guide for the float and spent another few minutes trying to get the arm oriented properly to make contact with the resistor and buttoned everything back up.  Going to go for a shake out drive to see if there are any weird noises to worry about.

I heard there's a collision place near by that might be much cheaper. I really only want to pull that dent out enough to mount a new bumper cover. It doesn't need to look pretty. I visited that collision place and the owner said he would call me but he never returned my calls. I guess there was not enough profit for him and too many cars waiting for repairs to worry about my perfectly drive-able car.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Universal Speedometer/Tachometer install

I wanted to replace my original speedometer and tachometer for something more compact. I'm not sure why, but the original 85mph speedometer always bothered me. I guess I felt like the bike deserved better even though I've only pinned it once in 10 years of riding.   After casually looking around and almost pulling the trigger on a cheaper universal speedo with an analog sweep needle for the tach, I stumbled across this product. It can be found in all the usual places such as Amazon and eBay but it's usually buried behind 2 or 3 pages of search results with vastly different prices ranging from mid 40s to mid 80s (US$). The description typically includes a listing of what each wire is intended to be connected to, but in typical fashion for these kinds of imported products the English translation leaves a lot to be desired. For example: the product detail notes: "Oil Quantity Indicator" as one of the display areas, but they really mean fuel level (my bike doesn't...

how to open your door when neither handle works

My recently acquired 2003 Honda Accord EX 4 cyl had a faulty door lock actuator in the front passenger side door.  Here is a run down of what I did wrong in case you find yourself in a similiar situation. Shopping for door lock actuators - Prices go from around $10 to over $40. I mistakenly ordered a pair of door lock actuators ($20 for left and right) for a coupe and received 2 black actuators that were not sized correctly for my 4 door sedan which has smaller white actuators. I did not discover the problem until after I had the door panel off and the actuator removed from the door latch assembly. It was hot, the flies were landing on me and drinking my sweat and I just wanted to button the door back up and stay cool inside so I searched for the closest parts store that had the part in stock and went there to buy it for $45. (I did return the 2 wrong parts but did not get a full refund, but I'm ok with that...$16 back in my pocket is better than $0) Reassembling the door l...

Nighthawk CB750 rear wheel swap part 1 - decision

I've always had a very slight side to side swaying sensation in certain conditions that I was not able to pinpoint.  It was especially bad back when I had a trunk/top case on the back of my bike.  An old timer on a forum noted that the tall rear tire mounted on a 16" wheel can get a little wobbly (concerning a top case causing 'sidewall flex, by increasing the leverage on the vertical axial moment of the bike') and that pretty much got the thought in my head to swap the rear wheel to a 17" or 18" at some point. the 1979 cb650 would have been an easy and cheap path forward since it's pretty much a direct swap to a 17" wheel with the advantage of the wheel design matching my front tire.  Unfortunately, those wheels were not cheap and getting more expensive by the day. I found 2 or 3 listings on ebay and was looking at a minimum of about $90 to get one shipped to my house and then I would still need to clean it and swap out the bearings.  Since I...