Skip to main content

Rearsets, finally

The desire to put rearsets on my cb750c has been kicking around in my head for many years. I've always felt my short legs didn't feel comfortable with the cruiser style ergonomics of the original foot peg placement but I didn't know how to mount rearsets. 

Roughly 3 years ago, I found a set that I liked and ordered them though I still had no idea how to mount them without spending the money for the cognito moto brackets.  I'm sure I'll end up spending some money for one of their fine products but they just seem too spendy for me, so I kept that option as a fallback in case I couldn't figure a way out. The rearsets sat in my garage but nothing came to me. At some point, I even bought some old brackets for a cb750f but didn't have an appropriate bolt to make that work. My swing arm swap bolt modification kinda caused an issue with mounting the part, but I don't remember the details around it now.

The easy and lazy solution was always to use the rear passenger foot peg mount and then convince myself and anyone that asks that I prefer that position but I'm old and there's no way I could see myself getting my foot back that far for very long without some-kind of cramp making getting home difficult.

 After learning to design in Tinker CAD and also how to print advanced engineering grade filaments such as PA6-CF, I started to work towards designing a mount for the rearset closer to where the cognito moto brackets position the foot pegs. I'm using the thin wall in the triangle that protrudes from the frame for the rear foot pegs as the base for the mount. Recognizing the thin flexible walls, I have part of my 3d printed mount sitting on the lower tube support for the triangle but there's definitely some flex in the foot peg when I put weight on them.

Some design considerations that I'm aware of and have not dismissed:

  • The thin metal is not strong enough to mount the pegs
  • The carbon fiber filament will exhibit creep and/or might fail catastrophically as it ages
  • The printed parts will absorb moisture from humid summer weather and turn mushy

I hope to either redesign the base mounting brackets or recreate them in metal in the future but need to use the next few riding seasons for field testing my proof of concept.

 

Old Brake Lever Modified
 
Old Shift Lever Modified     

Rather than cut my foot controls, I purchased a used set on eBay in the event I need to revert the modifications.

I welded the extensions I needed and painted them after grinding the weld splatter and using a little epoxy to fill in some of the voids for a cleaner appearance.



Fine tuning brake position
  


 
Finishing tube installed








Fine tuning shifter height
 
Finishing tube installed    

 I expected the shifting feel to change with the additional linkage, but with the engine not running, the shift engagement seems to have a more definitive click compared to the vague click that this bike has always had when shifting either up or down.

 

Mounts designed in Tinker CAD

The odd angles in the mounting base is compensation for the angle of the rear foot peg triangle. I needed to ensure a straight mounting surface for the foot peg to bolt to and for the nut on the other side of the triangle. It's not perfect but it's pretty close.  I used a camera and the online protractor tool to find my angles. I should have written them down so that I wouldn't have to re-measure during my future redesign efforts.

Last thing I need to do is remove the original foot rests and start testing this modification over the next few riding seasons. 


3D Printed spacer for bolt that held the original foot rests  

3D Printed spacer







Comments

Popular posts from this blog

how to open your door when neither handle works

My recently acquired 2003 Honda Accord EX 4 cyl had a faulty door lock actuator in the front passenger side door.  Here is a run down of what I did wrong in case you find yourself in a similiar situation. Shopping for door lock actuators - Prices go from around $10 to over $40. I mistakenly ordered a pair of door lock actuators ($20 for left and right) for a coupe and received 2 black actuators that were not sized correctly for my 4 door sedan which has smaller white actuators. I did not discover the problem until after I had the door panel off and the actuator removed from the door latch assembly. It was hot, the flies were landing on me and drinking my sweat and I just wanted to button the door back up and stay cool inside so I searched for the closest parts store that had the part in stock and went there to buy it for $45. (I did return the 2 wrong parts but did not get a full refund, but I'm ok with that...$16 back in my pocket is better than $0) Reassembling the door l...

Universal Speedometer/Tachometer install

I wanted to replace my original speedometer and tachometer for something more compact. I'm not sure why, but the original 85mph speedometer always bothered me. I guess I felt like the bike deserved better even though I've only pinned it once in 10 years of riding.   After casually looking around and almost pulling the trigger on a cheaper universal speedo with an analog sweep needle for the tach, I stumbled across this product. It can be found in all the usual places such as Amazon and eBay but it's usually buried behind 2 or 3 pages of search results with vastly different prices ranging from mid 40s to mid 80s (US$). The description typically includes a listing of what each wire is intended to be connected to, but in typical fashion for these kinds of imported products the English translation leaves a lot to be desired. For example: the product detail notes: "Oil Quantity Indicator" as one of the display areas, but they really mean fuel level (my bike doesn't...

GSX-R750 Caruretor swap for the CB750c Part1

As an owner of an early 80s cb750, it quickly becomes obvious that the CV carburetors on these old motorcycles require the original airbox to run properly. It would seem like a minor price to pay for the reliability and dependability that we get with the design since no jetting changes are needed as we change altititude or swap exhausts. The constant vacuum (CV) design automatically compensates for the difference and keeps the bike running happily. Just don't change the airbox or use anything other than the original style airfilter. I got my bike running perfectly so I'm either a glutton for punishment or just a dumb geek who can't leave stuff alone. "If it aint broke, fix it until it is" might be my motto. People tell me I wouldn't be happy with a new bike because there would be nothing to fix. Maybe it's just a way for me to keep my mind busy so I don't have to think how much I hate my job. I started noticing some posts from people on cb1100f...