Skip to main content

Experience programming home link mirror


I picked up this 2022 Camry hybrid XLE this week. It's the newest lowest mileage car that I've acquired in a long time.  There's not much to do to it with less than 56k miles except install a dashcam and remove the hybrid and XLE badges (whoever said it takes only 5 minutes was lying).  I've already removed the dealer sticker but I had quite the struggle programming the homelink mirror to open my garage door.

All of my garage remotes have failed and died after a decade of use so I converted over to MYQ connect to be able to open my garage door, but needing to open the door using a phone app is inconvenient due to the often long lag time waiting for the app to load.  Sure, I can open the garage from 5 miles away (or 15hrs away, but what good would that do for me?)

I initially thought I could save money from buying 3 remotes by doing the wifi based opener instead, but it's not a perfect experience.

I didn't clear my homelink buttons (due to incorrectly performing the reset) and got my garage door opener to learn the code programmed by the previous owner of the car and start working within 30 seconds.

I wanted to be able to open the other garage door but had trouble programming that button so followed the google search instructions to reset the codes (correctly this time) on the homelink and was now unable to program either homelink button for either door.  I tried to do the same thing that had just worked but nothing was working. 

After clearing the stored codes, I now had no way to program the homelink since I had no remotes.  

It seems the homelink needs to learn a remote transmission to be able to send something to the garage opener to learn.  It seems like I need to buy a compatible remote and use the signal from that to train the homelink and ultimately link to the garage door opener but I realized that I could use the keypad opener since it does send a signal. 

I decided to remove the keypad from the wall by opening the battery compartment and removing the screw before sliding it up to free it. There needs to be some coordinated button pushing between the 2 devices to get the homelink to learn so it's just easier to have both with you in the car when performing the procedure.

In my case, I don't have anything to open the 2nd door, so I'll still need to buy a remote for linking a homelink button to that door. 

 


Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Universal Speedometer/Tachometer install

I wanted to replace my original speedometer and tachometer for something more compact. I'm not sure why, but the original 85mph speedometer always bothered me. I guess I felt like the bike deserved better even though I've only pinned it once in 10 years of riding.   After casually looking around and almost pulling the trigger on a cheaper universal speedo with an analog sweep needle for the tach, I stumbled across this product. It can be found in all the usual places such as Amazon and eBay but it's usually buried behind 2 or 3 pages of search results with vastly different prices ranging from mid 40s to mid 80s (US$). The description typically includes a listing of what each wire is intended to be connected to, but in typical fashion for these kinds of imported products the English translation leaves a lot to be desired. For example: the product detail notes: "Oil Quantity Indicator" as one of the display areas, but they really mean fuel level (my bike doesn't...
Post a Comment
Read more

how to open your door when neither handle works

My recently acquired 2003 Honda Accord EX 4 cyl had a faulty door lock actuator in the front passenger side door.  Here is a run down of what I did wrong in case you find yourself in a similiar situation. Shopping for door lock actuators - Prices go from around $10 to over $40. I mistakenly ordered a pair of door lock actuators ($20 for left and right) for a coupe and received 2 black actuators that were not sized correctly for my 4 door sedan which has smaller white actuators. I did not discover the problem until after I had the door panel off and the actuator removed from the door latch assembly. It was hot, the flies were landing on me and drinking my sweat and I just wanted to button the door back up and stay cool inside so I searched for the closest parts store that had the part in stock and went there to buy it for $45. (I did return the 2 wrong parts but did not get a full refund, but I'm ok with that...$16 back in my pocket is better than $0) Reassembling the door l...
1 comment
Read more

Nighthawk CB750 rear wheel swap part 1 - decision

I've always had a very slight side to side swaying sensation in certain conditions that I was not able to pinpoint.  It was especially bad back when I had a trunk/top case on the back of my bike.  An old timer on a forum noted that the tall rear tire mounted on a 16" wheel can get a little wobbly (concerning a top case causing 'sidewall flex, by increasing the leverage on the vertical axial moment of the bike') and that pretty much got the thought in my head to swap the rear wheel to a 17" or 18" at some point. the 1979 cb650 would have been an easy and cheap path forward since it's pretty much a direct swap to a 17" wheel with the advantage of the wheel design matching my front tire.  Unfortunately, those wheels were not cheap and getting more expensive by the day. I found 2 or 3 listings on ebay and was looking at a minimum of about $90 to get one shipped to my house and then I would still need to clean it and swap out the bearings.  Since I...
Post a Comment
Read more